Both fog (from the cold ocean current) and dew (resulting from cold night-time temperatures) supply water to many plants and animals in the Namib Desert. The hardy Namib dune grass Stipagrstis sabulicola has an extensive mat of roots just below the surface of the sand that absorbs the fog or dew moisture. Ants, beetles, snakes, lizards and birds take advantage of the water that has condensed on plants, rocks and other cold surfaces. Snakes and geckos even drink the water that has condensed on their bodies. This includes the famous ‘head-standing’ beetle Onymaricus unguicularis, which utilizes the midnight fog by facing into the wind and lowering its head, allowing fog condensing on its body to flow downwards into the reaches of its mouth. All these and more are often encountered during a walk through the desert dunes with Boesman, our bare-footed local desert guide and an old friend of Compass Odyssey.

Married to Japanese wife, Yuri and the subject of an episode of the BBC’s “New Lives In the Wild” (he used to be an insurance salesman in Windhoek), Boesman takes you on a fascinating private tour of his farm and its resident desert dunes, during which he shows that the Namib Desert is alive and thriving with specialised animal and plant life, the great majority of it utilised in some way by the nomadic Bushmen (also collectively called the San people).

Situated half-way between the desert sands and the barren coast is one of Namibia’s best kept secrets (for now) – “Namib’s Valley of a Thousand Hills”. An overnight stop here is necessary due to its remoteness, and Namib’s Valley Lodge sits atop a highland that provides exceptional panoramic views of the Gaub Valley, seemingly riddled with thousands of hills, hence the region’s name. This natural scenery creates a fairytale feel to a place otherwise known for its dry and arid conditions and the sweeping, breath-taking views offer an opportunity for solitude and quiet reflection. “The Middle of Nowhere really exists and it’s called Namib’s Valley Lodge”.

Walvis Bay (“whale bay” in Afrikaans) has a history marked by colonial disputes and strategic importance, evolving from a whaling station to a key port for the British, and finally becoming part of Namibia in 1994 after a period as an enclave of South Africa. Today, industrial and commercial activities are the biggest industries in Walvis Bay and the Port receives between 1,500 and 2,500 vessel calls each year. Encompassing the bay, the Ramsar-listed Walvis Bay Wetlands host up to 100,000 birds, including Greater and Lesser flamingos, and serve as a vital wintering ground for Palaearctic birds. Its plankton-rich waters also support a thriving oyster-farming industry. We discover the bay’s prolific bird and marine life on an entertaining and informative cruise with a local skipper during which you may encounter dolphins, whales, Cape fur seals, and a variety of bird species, with the experience topped off by a fresh oyster lunch and a glass of chilled sparkling wine.

Embark on an afternoon 4×4 excursion along the coast to Sandwich Harbour, one of Namibia’s most remote and dramatic destinations. Located less than 60km south of Walvis Bay in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, Sandwich Harbour is a breathtaking site where some of the world’s highest sand dunes descend into the wild Atlantic Ocean to form a stunning lagoon. Once a fishing and trading port, this now Ramsar-listed wetland is home to large numbers of wading birds, including eight endangered species, making it one of Namibia’s most important coastal wetlands. The exciting 4×4 drive to/from the lagoon travels along the beach and over dunes that requires some handy driving skills from our local guide.

To the north of Swakopmund is the eerie and desolate Skeleton Coast, known as “The Land God Made in Anger” by the indigenous Bushmen, and “The Gates of Hell” by Portuguese mariners of old. With the strong Benguela current and unpredictable weather conditions contributing to its hazardous nature, the Skeleton Coast is notorious for its numerous shipwrecks – said to number over a thousand. Some of these remain on the ocean bed or out at sea, while others lie covered by the shifting sands, partially buried but some still visible and able to visited/photographed.

It’s possible to stay a night (or three, given the very long drive just to get there) on the coast at the aptly-named Shipwreck Lodge or the even more remote Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp.

Tucked between the Atlantic Ocean and the vast Namib Desert, Lüderitz is a remote and characterful coastal town with a distinctly German feel. Reached by a single sand-swept road, its pastel-coloured colonial buildings and clean sea air give it a gentle, almost otherworldly charm. Though quiet today, its past is anything but — a legacy shaped by the nearby diamond boom of the early 1900s.

Just inland lies Kolmanskop, a once-thriving mining town that boomed after the discovery of diamonds in 1908. In its heyday, it had grand homes, a hospital, theatre, and even an ice factory. Today, its ghostly remains are slowly being reclaimed by the desert sands. With restored buildings and eerie silence, Kolmanskop offers a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into a bygone era.

We accommodate our travellers in the mid-range Lüderitz Nest Hotel

Doro Nawas Camp is situated on a small hill at the edge of the Aba-Huab River valley, within the Doro !Nawas Conservancy. The camp offers adventurous guests the opportunity to take a night-time scorpion walk with a camp guide, guided by UV lights, to spot these nocturnal creatures. Due to its remote location and lack of light pollution, Damaraland is a perfect destination for a “star gazing walk” with a camp guide, who points out the various constellations and planets with a infra-red laser pointer. Doro Nawas Camp goes one step further, with each of the camp’s chalets offering a large comfortable bed that can be wheeled out onto your stoep (verandah) for a night’s sleep under the stars.

Twyfelfontein, officially known as ǀUi-ǁAis, is home to one of Africa’s largest concentrations of ancient rock engravings, with over 5,000 individual petroglyphs. Dating back between 6,000 and 10,000 years, these engravings were made by the San people, who used stone tools to carve depictions of wildlife such as eland, giraffe, and elephants. A second set of petroglyphs, believed to be 1,000 to 2,000 years old, includes cattle and may have been created by the pastoral Khoekhoe. Found near a spring once called ǀUi-ǁAis, Twyfelfontein is a sprawling site that offers a glimpse into the lives of ancient hunters and gatherers.